A park model home electrical system is the complete network of wiring, service connections, panels, circuits, and outlets that supplies power to a park model home, a factory-built dwelling typically between 400 and 500 square feet, certified under ANSI A119.5 or HUD standards, and designed for semi-permanent or permanent residential occupancy.
Park model electrical systems look simple from the outside. They are not. Get the wiring wrong and you face tripped breakers, voided warranties, failed inspections, and genuine safety hazards, all of which cost far more to fix than getting it right from the start.
This guide covers what makes park model electrical systems unique, how shore power and permanent land hookups work, what service size and panel capacity you actually need, how electrical codes apply, and what solar, generator, and backup options are available. We also walk through permitting, common problems, upgrades, and what to look for when hiring a licensed electrician for park model work.
What Is a Park Model Home Electrical System?
A park model home electrical system is a self-contained power distribution network built into the home at the factory that connects to an external electrical source and distributes power to every circuit, outlet, appliance, and fixture inside the unit.
I think of it as a residential electrical system compressed into a much smaller footprint. All the fundamental components are present: a main breaker panel, branch circuits, outlet receptacles, light fixtures, and appliance connections. What changes is the scale, the source connection type, and the regulatory framework that governs how all of it must be built.
The system has two primary sides. The supply side brings power in from a utility grid, shore power pedestal, solar array, or generator. The distribution side routes that power through the panel and out to individual circuits serving specific loads: lighting, HVAC, kitchen appliances, water heater, and outlets throughout the home.
Because park models are factory-built, the interior wiring is completed at the manufacturing facility before the home ever leaves the plant. What gets done on-site is the connection between the home and its power source, and that connection is where most of the variation, complexity, and permitting requirements live.
How Park Model Home Electrical Systems Differ from Standard Residential Wiring
Park model home electrical systems differ from standard site-built residential wiring in four fundamental ways: the governing code, the connection type, the panel capacity, and the installation sequence.
The table below maps the key differences:
| Factor | Park Model Home | Standard Site-Built Home |
| Governing standard | ANSI A119.5 / NFPA 70 Chapter 5 | NFPA 70 (NEC) residential provisions |
| Factory wiring | Completed at manufacturer | Installed on-site |
| Service connection | Shore power cord or permanent utility feed | Permanent utility service entrance |
| Typical service size | 30-amp or 50-amp | 100-amp, 150-amp, or 200-amp |
| Panel capacity | 60–100 amps typical | 100–200 amps typical |
| Inspection timing | Factory inspection + site inspection | Site inspection only |
The most important practical difference is the factory wiring. A site-built home’s electrician installs every wire, outlet, and fixture on location. A park model home arrives with all interior wiring already complete, inspected, and certified at the factory. The on-site electrical work begins where the factory work ends: at the point of connection to external power.
This distinction shapes every decision about service size, permitting, and inspection. It also means that modifying or extending factory wiring without proper authorization can void the unit’s certification, a detail that surprises many new park model owners.
Understanding Electrical Service Requirements for Park Model Homes
30-Amp vs. 50-Amp Service: Which Does Your Park Model Need?
The electrical service requirement for a park model home is determined by its total connected load: the combined wattage of all appliances, HVAC systems, water heating, lighting, and outlets the home is designed to run simultaneously.
A 30-amp service at 120 volts delivers 3,600 watts of usable capacity. A 50-amp service at 240 volts delivers up to 12,000 watts. Most modern park models with central air conditioning, electric water heaters, and full kitchen appliances require 50-amp service. Smaller or more lightly equipped units may operate adequately on 30-amp service, though upgrading later is more disruptive and expensive than specifying correctly upfront.
A simple load calculation tells the story:
| Appliance | Typical Draw |
| Central air conditioner (2-ton) | 2,000–3,500W |
| Electric water heater | 3,500–4,500W |
| Electric range/cooktop | 1,200–2,400W |
| Refrigerator | 100–200W |
| Lighting and outlets | 500–1,000W |
| Total typical load | 7,300–11,600W |
That load profile exceeds 30-amp capacity for any park model running its major systems simultaneously. I recommend 50-amp service as the baseline specification for any park model with central HVAC and a full appliance package.
Voltage Requirements and Circuit Capacity
Park model homes operate on standard North American voltage: 120V for general circuits and 240V for high-draw appliances. The 240V circuits typically serve the air conditioner, electric water heater, and electric range.
Circuit capacity within the home is a function of breaker rating and wire gauge. A 20-amp circuit using 12 AWG wire is standard for kitchen and bathroom circuits. A 15-amp circuit using 14 AWG serves general lighting and outlet circuits. High-draw 240V appliances require dedicated 30-amp or 50-amp circuits with appropriately rated wire.
Park Model Home Electrical Codes and Standards
NFPA 70 (National Electrical Code) and Park Models
NFPA 70, the National Electrical Code, is the foundational electrical safety standard that applies to park model homes in the United States. Specifically, Article 552 of the NEC covers park trailers, the classification under which most park model homes fall and it governs wiring methods, outlet placement, grounding, bonding, and the construction of the electrical supply cord and connection system.
Article 552 does not replace the full NEC; it supplements it. Provisions not specifically addressed in Article 552 default to the broader NEC requirements. This layered compliance structure means that park model electrical systems must satisfy both the park-trailer-specific provisions and the general NEC requirements simultaneously.
Every licensed electrician working on a park model needs to know Article 552. Not all do. That distinction matters enormously when you are evaluating who to hire for on-site hookup work.
HUD and ANSI A119.5 Compliance
ANSI A119.5 is the industry standard specifically written for park model recreational vehicles. It governs the complete construction of the unit, including its electrical system and factory inspections verify compliance before the home ships.
For homes built under HUD oversight or marketed as manufactured housing, HUD’s Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards may apply in addition to ANSI A119.5. The applicable standard depends on how the unit is classified at manufacture and how it is titled and registered in your state.
Understanding which standard governs your specific unit matters because it determines what modifications are permissible, which inspections are required, and what documentation you should have on file.
Shore Power Hookup: Connecting Your Park Model to the Grid
Shore power hookup is the process of connecting a park model home to an external electrical supply, most commonly through a power pedestal at an RV park, manufactured home community, or private land utility connection.
Pedestal Power Connections at RV Parks and Communities
Most RV parks and park model communities provide electrical pedestals positioned near each site. The pedestal contains one or more NEMA-rated receptacles, typically a 30-amp TT-30R, a 50-amp 14-50R, or both, along with a circuit breaker protecting that site’s supply.
The connection process follows this sequence:
- Confirm the pedestal supply matches your park model’s service requirement (30-amp or 50-amp).
- Inspect the supply cord and plug for damage, corrosion, or worn insulation before connecting.
- Set the pedestal breaker to the OFF position before plugging in.
- Connect the supply cord from the park model’s inlet to the pedestal receptacle, fully seated and locked.
- Turn the pedestal breaker ON and verify power at the park model’s panel.
- Check that the park model’s main breaker is functioning and that individual circuits are drawing normally.
- Test GFCI outlets in the kitchen, bathrooms, and exterior locations to confirm proper operation.
I always advise using a surge protector and voltage meter between the pedestal and the park model’s inlet. Pedestal power quality at campgrounds and older communities varies significantly, and low voltage or power surges are among the most common causes of appliance and HVAC damage in park model homes.
Underground vs. Overhead Utility Feeds
In communities where utilities are run site-to-site rather than through individual pedestals, the feed to a park model may arrive underground via direct-burial conduit or overhead via a service drop from a utility pole.
Underground feeds are the current standard for new community development; they are safer, more aesthetically clean, and less vulnerable to weather events. Overhead drops remain common in older parks and in rural areas where underground installation is cost-prohibitive.
The type of feed determines how the service entrance is configured on the park model side. Underground feeds typically terminate at a meter base and main disconnect mounted at or near the home. Overhead drops require a weatherhead, service entrance cable, and appropriate clearance heights above the roofline and any adjacent structures.
Permanent Electrical Hookup vs. Temporary RV-Style Connection
The choice between a permanent electrical hookup and a temporary RV-style connection is one of the most consequential decisions a park model owner makes, and it is often driven more by local zoning and permitting rules than by personal preference.
| Factor | Permanent Hookup | Temporary RV-Style Connection |
| Connection type | Hard-wired service entrance | Supply cord to pedestal receptacle |
| Meter required | Yes (utility-owned) | Depends on community |
| Permit required | Yes, always | Often no, but jurisdiction-specific |
| Inspection required | Yes | Often no |
| Suitable for private land | Yes | Limited by zoning |
| Suitable for RV parks | Rarely | Standard |
| Long-term reliability | Higher | Cord wear and connection quality vary |
| Ability to relocate the home | Requires disconnection process | Unplug and go |
Permanent hookups are required when a park model is placed on private land and connected to the utility grid as a dwelling. They involve a utility meter, a service entrance, a main disconnect, and a permit-and-inspection process that mirrors what a site-built home goes through.
Temporary connections are the norm in RV parks and seasonal communities where the home may be moved. They offer flexibility at the cost of long-term connection reliability, and supply cords left plugged in for years degrade in ways that pose real fire and shock hazards if not inspected regularly.
Park Model Home Electrical Panel and Breaker Box Guide
Main Panel Sizing for Park Models
A park model home’s electrical panel is the central distribution point for all power entering the home. It houses the main breaker, which controls total power to the unit, and the individual branch circuit breakers that protect each circuit.
Park model panels are typically sized between 60 and 100 amps, reflecting the home’s smaller footprint and lower total connected load compared to a full-size site-built home. A 100-amp panel is the standard specification for a modern park model with 50-amp service, central HVAC, electric water heating, and a full kitchen.
Panel size must match or exceed the service size. A 50-amp supply feeding a 60-amp panel leaves almost no headroom for future load additions. I consider a 100-amp panel the minimum sensible specification for any park model intended for full-time or year-round occupancy.
Circuit Breaker Layout and Load Distribution
A well-designed park model breaker layout separates high-draw circuits from general-purpose circuits and assigns dedicated breakers to appliances that require them.
| Circuit Type | Typical Breaker Size | Wire Gauge |
| Main breaker | 60–100A | Service entrance cable |
| Air conditioner (240V) | 30–40A | 10 AWG |
| Electric water heater (240V) | 30A | 10 AWG |
| Electric range/oven (240V) | 40–50A | 8–6 AWG |
| Kitchen small appliance circuits | 20A | 12 AWG |
| Bathroom circuits | 20A | 12 AWG |
| General lighting/outlets | 15A | 14 AWG |
| Exterior outlets | 20A | 12 AWG |
Load distribution matters as much as total capacity. Concentrating too many high-draw circuits on one leg of a split-phase panel creates imbalance that accelerates wear on the panel and the supply connection. Factory-built park models are typically wired with balanced load distribution, a standard worth verifying on any used unit before purchase.
Interior Wiring Standards for Park Model Homes
Wire Gauges and Circuit Types Used in Park Models
Interior wiring in a park model home follows NEC Article 552, which specifies permissible wiring methods for park trailers. Factory-installed wiring in most modern park models uses copper conductors in non-metallic sheathed cable (NM-B, commonly called Romex) or, in some cases, aluminum wiring for larger service conductors.
Park model home wiring standards require that all conductors be sized for the circuit’s breaker rating: a 20-amp circuit must use 12 AWG minimum and a 15-amp circuit 14 AWG minimum. Undersized wiring relative to breaker rating is a fire hazard and a code violation, and it is one of the most common defects found in non-compliant or improperly modified park models.
Wiring methods inside a park model must be protected from physical damage wherever the cable runs through or near structural members, floors, or areas subject to movement. Because park models are transported on their frames, the wiring must also be designed to withstand the mechanical stresses of transport, a requirement that distinguishes park model wiring from conventional residential wiring in subtle but important ways.
Outlet Placement, GFCI, and AFCI Requirements
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protection is required in all wet locations inside a park model home: kitchens, bathrooms, laundry areas, exterior outlets, and any outlet within six feet of a water source. GFCI devices detect the small current imbalances that indicate a ground fault and cut power in milliseconds, preventing electrocution.
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) protection is required on most bedroom, living room, and general-use circuits in park models built to current NEC standards. AFCI breakers detect the arc signatures associated with damaged or degraded wiring, a particularly important protection in factory-built homes where wiring runs through walls and cavities that are inaccessible after assembly.
Outlet spacing in a park model follows NEC rules adapted to the home’s smaller floor plan; no point along a wall should be more than six feet from an outlet. Kitchens require at least two 20-amp small-appliance circuits serving the countertop outlets.
Running Electrical to a Park Model Home on Private Land
Running electricity to a park model home placed on private land is a multi-step process involving the utility company, the local building department, a licensed electrician, and potentially a trenching contractor. It is not a DIY project, and treating it as one creates safety hazards and permitting violations that can prevent the home from being legally occupied.
Utility Company Coordination and Meter Installation
The process begins with the utility company, not the electrician. Before any wiring is planned or permitted, contact your utility provider to:
- Confirm service availability at your parcel and identify the nearest distribution line.
- Request a new service application and review the utility’s requirements for service entrance construction.
- Determine whether overhead or underground service is available or required in your area.
- Understand the utility’s timeline: new service installations can take weeks to months in rural areas.
- Identify the utility’s meter base specification: the meter socket must match utility requirements exactly.
The utility owns and installs the meter. The homeowner is responsible for everything on the customer side of the meter: the meter base, main disconnect, service entrance conductors, and all downstream wiring.
Trenching, Conduit, and Underground Service Entrance
Once the utility confirms service availability and the local building department issues a permit, the physical installation of the service entrance can begin.
- Pull an electrical permit from the local building or planning department; this is non-negotiable for utility-connected permanent installations.
- Hire a licensed electrician to design the service entrance and specify conduit type, burial depth, and wire sizing.
- Engage a trenching contractor (or use the electrician’s crew) to dig the trench from the utility point of delivery to the meter location.
- Install conduit, typically Schedule 40 or Schedule 80 PVC for underground runs to the required burial depth (typically 24 inches for rigid conduit under the NEC, though local amendments may require more).
- Pull service entrance conductors through the conduit.
- Install the meter base, main disconnect, and service entrance panel at the home.
- Schedule the rough-in inspection before backfilling the trench.
- Call the utility for meter installation after inspection approval.
- Schedule the final inspection and obtain sign-off before energizing the system.
The underground electrical service installation process on private land typically costs between $1,500 and $8,000 depending on trench length, soil conditions, local permit fees, and whether overhead or underground service is used. Rural parcels where the utility connection point is far from the home site carry the highest costs.
Solar Power and Off-Grid Electrical Options for Park Model Homes
Solar power is a legitimate and increasingly practical primary electrical source for park model homes particularly for units placed on private land where utility connection is expensive, remote, or subject to long installation timelines.
Solar Panel System Sizing for Park Models
A solar array for a park model home must be sized to match the home’s daily energy consumption, accounting for the local solar resource (measured in peak sun hours) and the inefficiencies inherent in real-world solar systems.
A park model consuming 20–30 kWh per day, typical for a full-time occupied unit with central HVAC in a moderate climate, requires a solar array between 4 kW and 8 kW, depending on location and battery storage capacity. California’s strong solar resource makes it one of the better states for park model solar installations, with many coastal and inland locations averaging five or more peak sun hours per day.
Choosing the right solar configuration for a park model depends on three conditions:
- Off-grid only: Size the array and battery bank to cover 100% of consumption, with a generator backup for extended low-sun periods.
- Grid-tied with solar offset: Connect to utility power and use solar to reduce consumption; simpler and less expensive, but requires utility interconnection approval.
- Hybrid grid-tie with battery backup: The most resilient option; solar charges batteries, batteries power the home during outages, and the grid provides backup when both are insufficient.
Battery Storage and Hybrid Grid-Tie Systems
Lithium iron phosphate (LFP) battery systems have become the preferred storage technology for park model solar installations. LFP batteries tolerate partial states of charge, deliver more usable capacity than lead-acid alternatives, and carry cycle life ratings that make them practical for daily cycling over a 10-year horizon.
A well-designed hybrid system pairs a properly sized solar array with enough battery capacity to carry the home’s baseload through the night, typically 10–20 kWh of usable storage for a full-time park model and a transfer switch that shifts seamlessly between solar, battery, and grid power without interrupting appliance operation.
Generator Hookup and Backup Power for Park Model Homes
A generator is either the primary power source or a backup source for a park model home, and how it connects to the home’s electrical system determines how safely and effectively it serves either role.
Connecting a generator directly to a park model’s outlets using a standard extension cord is dangerous and code-prohibited. It bypasses the panel’s circuit protection and creates backfeed hazards for utility workers during outages. The correct approach is a dedicated generator connection through a transfer switch.
The generator hookup process for a park model involves these steps:
- Select a generator sized to the park model’s critical load. A 5,000W to 7,500W generator covers most park models running essential circuits without HVAC; 10,000W or more is needed to run central air conditioning.
- Install a manual or automatic transfer switch between the utility supply and the park model’s main panel. The transfer switch prevents backfeed and allows safe switching between utility and generator power.
- Route a dedicated generator inlet (a NEMA 14-50R or L14-30R inlet is typical) to an exterior location accessible to the generator.
- Connect the generator to the inlet using a properly rated generator cord, never an extension cord.
- Have a licensed electrician inspect and approve the transfer switch installation before energizing.
- Test the system under load before relying on it for primary or emergency power.
Electrical Inspection and Permitting for Park Model Homes
When a Permit Is Required
An electrical permit is required any time electrical work is performed on a park model home that is connected to a permanent utility service, installed as a dwelling on private land, or modified beyond its factory-certified configuration. The specific trigger varies by jurisdiction, but as a practical rule: if it involves the service entrance, the main panel, any new circuit, or any modification to factory wiring, a permit is required.
Work performed inside a leased RV park space on temporary shore power connections may not require a permit, but that exception is narrower than most people assume. Many jurisdictions require permits even for temporary installations once the unit is occupied as a primary or year-round residence.
What Inspectors Check on Park Model Electrical Systems
A park model electrical inspection covers both the on-site work and, in some cases, the factory-built portions of the system. Inspectors typically verify:
- Service entrance construction and weatherproofing
- Meter base installation and utility connection
- Main disconnect and main breaker rating
- Panel labeling, circuit identification, and breaker sizing
- GFCI protection in all required locations
- AFCI protection on required circuits
- Grounding and bonding at the panel and service entrance
- Exterior outlet weatherproofing
- Conduit burial depth (if underground service)
- Compliance with the applicable code edition adopted by the jurisdiction
Failing an electrical inspection delays occupancy and typically requires corrections and re-inspection an avoidable outcome when a licensed electrician familiar with park model standards manages the installation.
Common Park Model Electrical Problems and How to Identify Them
Park model homes develop electrical problems through a combination of age, transport stress, deferred maintenance, and the cumulative wear of shore power connections. Knowing the warning signs lets owners address problems before they become hazards.
| Problem | Common Symptoms | Likely Cause |
| Tripping main breaker | Breaker trips without obvious overload | Undersized service, faulty breaker, short circuit |
| Tripping GFCI outlets | GFCI trips frequently or won’t reset | Ground fault, moisture intrusion, wiring fault |
| Dimming lights under load | Lights dim when appliances start | Low voltage at pedestal, undersized supply cord |
| Overheating outlets or plugs | Warm or discolored outlets | Loose connections, undersized wire, overloaded circuit |
| Flickering lights | Random or persistent flicker | Loose neutral, poor shore connection, failing breaker |
| Outlets not working | Dead outlets in kitchen or bath | Tripped GFCI upstream, tripped breaker, open neutral |
| Burning smell from panel | Odor near breaker box | Overheated connections, failing breaker, arcing |
The most common root cause I see in park models with persistent electrical problems is a degraded shore power connection, either a worn supply cord, a corroded pedestal receptacle, or a loose inlet connection at the home. These problems are inexpensive to fix but become dangerous when ignored.
Any burning smell, scorch marks near outlets or the panel, or a breaker that trips immediately on reset warrants an immediate call to a licensed electrician. Do not attempt to diagnose or repair these conditions without professional assessment.
Upgrading the Electrical System in an Older Park Model Home
Older park model homes, particularly those built before 2005, may have electrical systems that no longer meet current NEC requirements, cannot support modern appliance loads, or have degraded to the point where they pose safety risks.
An electrical upgrade is warranted when any of the following conditions are present:
- Aluminum branch circuit wiring: Pre-1980 park models may have aluminum wiring on 15-amp and 20-amp branch circuits, a known fire hazard that requires remediation through CO/ALR-rated devices or complete rewiring.
- Ungrounded outlets: Two-prong outlets without a ground conductor indicate wiring that predates grounded circuit requirements.
- No GFCI protection: Kitchens and bathrooms without GFCI protection fail current code and are a shock hazard.
- No AFCI protection: Required on most circuits in units being permitted for occupancy under current code editions.
- Panel capacity below 60 amps: Inadequate for modern appliance loads; replacement with a 100-amp panel is standard.
- 30-amp service on a fully equipped unit: Upgrade to 50-amp service if the unit runs central HVAC and electric appliances.
- Damaged or degraded supply cord: Any cord showing cracking, corrosion, or heat damage must be replaced before use.
Electrical upgrades in a park model home require permits in most jurisdictions and must be performed by a licensed electrician. Unpermitted electrical work in a park model can void insurance coverage and create title complications when selling the unit.
Hiring a Licensed Electrician for Park Model Home Work
A licensed electrician for park model home work is an electrician who holds a valid state electrical contractor license, carries general liability and workers’ compensation insurance, and has direct experience with the NEC Article 552 provisions that govern park trailer electrical systems, not merely general residential electrical experience.
Not every licensed electrician is equipped for park model work. The combination of factory-built wiring, RV-derived connection systems, and manufactured housing code compliance creates a specialty that most residential electricians encounter infrequently. Hiring the wrong electrician produces work that may pass a casual inspection but fails under load or creates long-term safety issues.
When evaluating electricians for park model work, confirm the following:
- Valid state license: Verify the license number through your state’s contractor licensing board, not just the contractor’s word.
- Park model or manufactured home experience: Ask directly. Request references from previous park model or manufactured housing projects.
- Familiarity with NEC Article 552: Ask which code sections govern park trailer electrical systems. An electrician who cannot answer demonstrates a knowledge gap.
- Permit-pulling capability: A licensed electrician should pull the permit. An electrician who asks you to pull your own permit is a warning sign.
- Written scope and pricing: Get a written proposal that specifies the work scope, materials, permit fees, and inspection process before signing anything.
- Insurance certificates: Request proof of general liability and workers’ comp before work begins.
Conclusion
We have covered every layer of park model electrical systems from factory wiring standards and service sizing through shore power hookups, permanent land connections, solar options, permitting, and professional hiring. The system is more complex than it looks, and that complexity is exactly where mistakes happen.
Understanding these components puts us in the right position to make decisions that protect the home, satisfy code requirements, and support long-term reliable power whether the park model sits in a community or on private land.
At Tiny Home Builders California, we guide our clients through every stage of park model planning, including the electrical decisions that matter most for performance, safety, and compliance across California.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a park model home run on 30-amp service?
A park model home can run on 30-amp service if its total connected load stays below 3,600 watts at any given time. Most modern park models with central air conditioning and electric appliances exceed that threshold and require 50-amp service.
Do park model homes need to meet NEC electrical code?
Park model homes are required to comply with NEC Article 552, which governs park trailer electrical systems, in addition to any applicable local code amendments. Factory-built units are also inspected under ANSI A119.5 at the manufacturing facility.
What size electrical panel does a park model home need?
Most park model homes need a 100-amp main panel to support 50-amp service, central HVAC, electric water heating, and a full kitchen appliance load. Older or lightly equipped units may operate with a 60-amp panel, but 100 amps is the current standard specification.
Can I hook up a park model home to my house’s electrical panel?
Connecting a park model home directly to a residential house panel is not code-compliant and is not recommended. Each structure requires its own dedicated service and metering. A licensed electrician and the local utility company must be involved in any permanent connection to the grid.
How much does it cost to run electricity to a park model home?
Running electricity to a park model home on private land typically costs between $1,500 and $8,000, depending on trench length, local permit fees, utility connection charges, and whether overhead or underground service is used. Remote parcels with long runs from the utility connection point carry the highest costs.
Can park model homes use solar power as their primary electrical source?
Park model homes can use solar power as their primary electrical source. A properly sized system, typically 4 kW to 8 kW of panels paired with 10–20 kWh of battery storage, can supply all of a full-time park model’s power needs in California’s solar-rich climate.
What is the difference between a 30-amp and 50-amp plug on a park model?
A 30-amp park model plug is a three-prong NEMA TT-30P connector operating at 120 volts, delivering up to 3,600 watts. A 50-amp plug is a four-prong NEMA 14-50P connector operating at 240 volts, delivering up to 12,000 watts more than three times the capacity of a 30-amp connection.
